Mittwoch, 27. Juni 2012

Im Dauertest: DERMALOGICA

 DERMALOGICA ist eine Kosmetikmarke, die besonders in den USA ziemlich gehypt wird - alle möglichen Stars und Sternchen sollen sie verwenden , wie zum Beispiel Eva Longoria, Sarah Jessica Parker und Uma Thurman.

Vor anderthalb Jahren kam es dazu, dass ich im Rahmen meiner Ausbildung eine Grund-Schulung (*g*) bei DERMALOGICA absolvieren konnte.
Ich fand die Marke, ihr Konzept, ihre Präsentation und auch nicht zuletzt ihre offensichtliche Wirkung sehr ansprechend und beeindruckend. 

Zu diesem Zeitpunkt hatten ich und eine Berufsschulkameradin eine sehr schlimme Akne entwickelt (bei mir hormonell bedingt durch das Absetzen der Pille) und "opferten" uns direkt als Vorführmodell für die Produkte. Das Ergebnis war besonders bei meiner Kollegin erstaunlich. Nach anderthalb Stunden sah sie aus, wie komplett erneuert. Die Akne war natürlich nicht weg, aber Rötungen und Schwellungen waren stark abgeklungen und die Poren sahen wesentlich kleiner aus.
Auch ich war mit dem Ergebnis sehr zufrieden.

Das Interessanteste an dieser Schulung war das sogenannte Face-Mapping (später mehr dazu). Dabei werden, im Idealfall vor jeder Kosmetikbehandlugn aufs Neue, verschiedene Arreale des Gesichts analysiert  und anhand dessen auf Ungleichgewichte, Mangelerscheinungen oder gar Erkrankungen des Inneren geschlossen.  Ich hielt solche Methoden für Humbug - bis mir die Schulungsleiterin sämtliche Erkrankungen aufzählte, die ich tatsächlich habe, vor allen Dingen die chronisch-entzündliche Darmerkrankung, die sie aus der stark entzündeten Kinnregion schloss. Wow!

Toll!- dachte ich, und ließ mir zu Weihnachten eine Grundausstattung schenken. Im Laufe der letzten anderthalb Jahre kam noch einiges dazu, und jedes Produkt, das ich getestet habe, möchte ich gern reviewen.

Eine kleine Anmerkung vorweg: Es kommen nun nicht Posting für Posting Lobeshymnen, meine Begeisterung hat auch an einigen Stellen einen tüchtigen Dämpfer bekommen und inzwischen bin ich zumindest teilweise wieder auf eine andere Pflege umgestiegen. ;-)

Über Dermalogica

Dermalogica wurde 1986 vom International Dermal Institute gegründet.  Als Initiatorin gilt Jane Wurwand, die auch einen eigenen Internetblog führt.

Das offizielle DERMALOGICA-Logo
Hier in Deutschland ist die Marke, glaube ich, noch nicht sooo übermäßig bekannt. Es gibt gerade hier bei uns im "Wilden Osten" ;-) nur sehr wenige Kosmetikstudios, die damit arbeiten, während ich im Englandurlaub festgestellt habe, dass dort sogar der kleinste Dorfsalon damit arbeitet...

Dermalogica sagt über sich selbst:


Der Moment der Ihre Haut verändert. Für immer.
Wenn Dermalogica und Haut aufeinander treffen, wird die Hautgesundheit neu definiert. Dermalogica ist die erste Wahl von Hautpflegespezialisten und Verbrauchern weltweit. Warum? Weil wir uns seit über 25 Jahren gesunder Haut verschrieben haben. Nicht mit Werbung, tollen Verpackungen, hochtrabenden Versprechungen oder übertriebenem Medienrummel, sondern durch Erfahrung, Innovation und professionelle Empfehlungen.

Hier mehr dazu 

Face Mapping

Das Face Mapping ist eine neue, außergewöhnliche Art der Hautanalyse.
Bei einer normalen Hautanalyse wird nur das Gesicht  in seiner Gesamtheit beurteilt und meist lediglich zwischen T-Zone (Stirn, Nase, Kinn) und Wangenbereich unterschieden.
Face Map

Beim Face Mapping werden hingegen 14 verschiedene Arreale unterschieden, von denen jedes einzelne genau betrachtet und im Prinzip jede Unreinheit, jede Unregelmäßigkeit notiert und analysiert wird. Somit erhält man ein sehr genaues Ergebnis vom momentanen Zustand der Haut (es geht hier immer nur um eine Momentaufnahme, deshalb sollte das Face Mapping vor jeder Kosmetikbehandlung wiederholt werden).

Anhand dessen, was beim FM festgestellt wurde, werden die entsprechenden Produkte für die Behandlung ausgewählt. Diese können wiederum beliebig mit Zusätzen (Booster, Botanical Mixers etc.) modifiziert werden - also ganz individuell auf die aktuellen Bedürfnisse der Haut angepasst.

Das finde ich prinzipiell erstmal sehr toll, sehr überzeugend und äußerst professionell. Es entspricht dem, was ich mir unter einem individuellen Hautpflegeprogramm vorstelle, anstatt dem üblichen Schema F ("Kundin XY hat Pickel, also nehmen wir da immer die Serie für fettige Haut!"...)  Bei DERMALOGICA gibt es keine "Serien" in dem Sinne - alle Produkte sind beliebig untereinander kombinierbar, auch wenn es ein paar Specials gibt (MediBac, UltraCalming und AGEsmart). Auch das finde ich klasse, denn festgelegten Serien kann ich nichts abgewinnen, die fahren mir zu stumpf auf Klischeehauttypen ab.

So weit, so toll.  Der Moment, der meine Haut verändert? Für immer? Das werden wir sehen!

Folgende Produkte hatte ich nun über eine lange Zeit im Test:


Reinigung

- Precleanse
- Special Cleansing Gel
- Dermal Clay Cleanser
- Daily Microfoliant (Peeling)

 Tonisierung

- Soothing Protection Spray (heißt jetzt Ultracalming Mist)
- Multi Active Toner

Creme 

- Active Moist (Creme)
- MediBac Oil Control Lotion
- Sheer Tint Moisture
- Total Eye Care

Booster

- Skin Hydrating Booster
- Special Clearing Booster

Masken/Packungen

- Skin Hydrating Masque
- Skin Refining Masque
- UltraCalming Relief Masque
- Intensiv Moisture Masque
- Plankton Masque Base (nur für den professionellen Gebrauch)

Professionell

- MediBac Skin Exfoliant System
- Scaling Fluid
- Post Extraction Solution

Eine ganze Menge! Ich musste zum Glück nicht alles selber zum kompletten Preis kaufen, sondern bekam zum Teil noch einige Restbestände aus der Schule.Sonst hätte ich niemals so viel angesammelt, denn die Preise bei Dermalogica haben es leider wirklich in sich.


Soviel erstmal zum Urschleim - bald beginnen die Reviews der einzelnen Sachen!


Eure Sisa ♥



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